🔗 Share this article

Whenever curating a roll of London’s top eateries, one might anticipate well-known award-winning names. But, tucked high among these gastronomic heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant part of northern London.

A Shocking Accolade

The small Turkish spot, focusing in the street food of Mersin, a port city on Turkey’s Mediterranean coast, has been named the fourth best restaurant in the city by a prominent food magazine. This accolade has made the owners totally shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” says the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ relentless work that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a prominent spot on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Simplicity

The little venue, which was a simple cafe before its transformation into a sought-after destination, has maintained much of its earlier character. It fits just more than 20 people and, except for the dazzling live cooking display, the setup remains largely unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy place,” says the owner.

The Namesake Creation: Tantuni

In the end, it is all about the cuisine, and this eatery certainly succeeds. The restaurant’s eponymous dish, tantuni, is a straightforward delight. The meat—whether lamb or chicken—is steamed to keep a succulent consistency.

It is then tossed into a massive pan with spices and oil, which are incorporated in slowly. As the savoury mixture starts to simmer, freshly made lavaş—a soft bread—is laid on top to take in all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are placed before the flavourful meat is rolled neatly inside.

It is often enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The end result is a strong burst of taste, with gentle hints of sumac, punchy onions and red, paprika-infused oil tying it all together.

Other Than the Basic Tantuni

Patrons can also try yoğurtlu tantuni, where the meat-filled lavaş is chopped and crowned with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. The prominent food critic described this dish “among London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

When it comes to sweets, the eatery’s künefe goes down a treat. It is coated in lighter syrup than usual, resulting in it a more intense, toastier and less sickly flavour.

Surpassing the Giants

Interestingly, this modest spot has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred establishments. It finds itself near the summit of the list, trailing other high-profile dining destinations.

While two people could readily leave the restaurant satisfied for below £25, similar experiences at top-tier establishments can start at significantly more than that amount.

The Creed of Heart

It is also among several Turkish restaurants listed and is found well outside the city’s central zones. “It’s not about luxury. London is an costly city. There is an expectation that in an high-cost place you’re going to have the best service and top food but I do not subscribe to that,” says the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and a place you can be yourself and be calm.”

This sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who remarked that if he were in a role of authority, he would “insist to make every chef in London visit this restaurant as a finishing school, to teach them the dangers of overcomplication, and to show what is attainable if you do only a handful of – or three – things to their utmost best”.

The Path of Dedication

In contrast to most chefs managing kitchens in the list’s top ten, the mastermind behind the food didn’t apprentice at Michelin-starred establishments. “I feel truly pleased of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

Many restaurants take years to become successful, but this one first launched seven years ago. Its success is due to relentless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“Our mum was really tired. She would source produce in the morning and prepare the food in the afternoon. All of it is made by hand; she would handle all of this. She is a single mother and she balanced a social life but her friends would come here to support her. She had children and a house to care for as well. All of these roles made her into what she is now: a remarkable person,” he says.

An Accomplishment for the People

The restaurant’s recognition is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “In my opinion a lot of people would be pleased, as I am, because the Turkish community is a huge part of London,” notes the owner, pointing out the wider meaning of this gastronomic triumph.